SBS Realistic Stonefly Nymph.

1)      Take a hook, size #6. Partridge YD4AF

Bend the hook twice: at first for the head down and secondly for the body to the left if you are left handed and right if you are right handed, I am left handed so I bend it to the left.

2)      Tie in two pieces of lead wire 0,025 mm on each side of the hook shank. At the front the piece should be 4 mm shorter than the inner side piece. At the back it should be 1 mm shorter. The lead wire is only to achieve a wider body.

3)      Tie in two tails. The tails come from a synthetic paint-brush. Don’t tie in the tails at the end, but about 5 mm off the end. The tails will later point out from the side of the body.

4)      The abdomen is made from nymph skin, of Virtual Nymph. Cut a point to the nymph skin and tie it in at the backside of the hook. By colouring the first 6 cm of the nymph skin yellow, a nice dark colour is obtained later on. To colour use a marker of Promarker, colour: mustard.

5)      Bring the tying thread to the hook-eye and form the abdomen with the nymph skin. After one wrap push the tails to the back so the point out of the body. When at ¾ of the body put more tension on the nymph skin to form a more slender front of the body.

6)      Secure the nymph skin at the hook-eye with a single thread wrap. Pull back the nymph skin and tighten it about 1,5 cm from the hook-eye. So don’t tighten it right behind the hook-eye otherwise you will get a thickening there.

7)      Form the tail with your fingernails. By going over the outside of the tails with your nails, the tail will point outside.

8)      Repeat this step 7 at the inside of the tails, starting around 6 mm from the body. Since the material is synthetic you don’t have to worry about breaking the tails. Repeat step 7 and 8 until the tails have the correct form.

9)      Now the fly can be coloured. Use a marker of Prismacolor, colour: walnut. Colour the complete body, including the tails. The easiest way to do this is to remove the fly from the vice.

10)  Apply the accents to the body, with a marker of Prismacolor, colour cocoabean. The accents are a line over the top of the body and dots at the sides of the body and the first part of the tails. Varnish the body with a water based gloss varnish. This varnish will be completely clear when dry.

11)  Now the wing cases can be made. To do this we use the Stonefly Standard of the HJP Nymph Tool. For more info about the nymph tool check http://www.hjpnymphtool.dk/ First the walnut colour has to be applied to the metal of the tool. As you can see on the photo a choice from three sizes can be made. Choose the size which you think fits best to your hook.

12)  Apply Soft body of Anglers’ Choice with a needle to the coloured part of the tool evenly. Keep the tool level when doing this. Create two eyes by melting monofilament into balls. Put the eyes in the wet softbody and bring them to the right place with a needle. Don’t mind the colour of the eyes; these will be made black later on. Let the softbody dry for at least 9 hours, you can do this process quicker by replacing the soft body for a uv cure resin.

13)  After drying, the colour of the metal of the tool has integrated into the softbody wing cases. On photo 13 one side of the nymph tool is shown, the other side is a single wing case that you also need for the stone fly, see the coloured end result.

14)  Tie in the largest wing cases behind the hook eye, tie in with the eyes down. Also tie in two antennas. These can be obtained from a paint-brush. And tie in the legs.

15)  The legs of the stonefly nymph are made from the long hairs of a soft broom. Tie in the legs at the bottom of the body. Use a marker to put dots on the legs, at the point where the legs will be bend later. At the back legs dots are applied 9 mm from the center of the body. On the middle legs the dots will be at 8 mm and at the front legs at 7 mm.

16)  When tying in the legs you don’t have to worry about the tying thread. On top of the body the wing cases will cover the thread and the on the bottom ostrich fibers will be applied later.

17)  Tie off the thread before bending the legs, so the thread won’t be in the way. The bending of the legs can be done by heating a needle with a lighter and holding the needle to the legs carefully. You can also use the melting tool which is developed by Oliver Edwards.

After bending (each leg two times), cut off the legs to the required length.

18)  Because, in reality, the legs don’t have the same thickness over the whole length we will now shape the legs. For this we use UV Wader Repair, a UV-light and a needle.

19)  Shape each leg at a time by applying the UV Wader Repair with the needle and realize that it’s better to apply a lot of thin layers than one thick layer.

20)  The legs should have a nice tapered shape, after each layer you use the UV-light to dry the UV Wader Repair.

21)  After +/- 3 layers the first leg is ready.

22)  Finally the legs should look like this.

23)  Colour the legs with a marker, colour cocoa bean and varnish them with the glossy varnish (see step 10).

24)  Start with the tying thread again in front of the middle legs and tie in the smallest wing cases.

25)  Tie in a grey ostrich fiber at the bottom of the body at the point where the middle legs are positioned. First rub your fingers over the fiber so the hairs will be in 90 degrees position of the fiber. The fibers imitate the breathing gills of the stonefly nymph.

26)  Bring the tying thread to the front and tie in the front wing cases behind the eyes.

27)  Now wrap the ostrich fiber around all three pairs of legs.

28)  After +/- 3 wraps per pair of legs you go forward. Just behind the front legs the ostrich fiber can be secured and the excess can be cut off.

29)  Push down the front wing cases and tie it in behind the front legs. Due to the antenna’s and the front legs this can be done best manually by applying a couple of half slip knots.

30)  Use a needle or a small brush to cover the tying thread with the fibers.

31)  Colour the tying thread at the top with a marker, colour: cocoabean.

32)  Colour the eyes black. Shape the antenna’s with your nails. Use glossy varnish to finish the wing cases shields and the tying thread.

33)  Enjoy your self made piece of art !!

34)  Finessed stonefly nymph.

I hope you enjoy tying this nymph  as much as I do and if you have any problem during the tying process, you can contact me for help.

Johan

6 reacties op SBS Realistic Stonefly Nymph.

  1. chris reeves zegt:

    Great step by step Johan, So that’s how it is done!Thanks for posting it.

  2. Pingback: Realistic Stonefly Nymph | FrankenFly

  3. Luc zegt:

    Wonderful fly, Johan.
    Would you please comment on how exactly to wrap the ostrich around the legs? is it a figure 8 and use the thread to secure it to the body? I can’t tell from the pics, probably because of my lack of experience in realistic fly tying.

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